Elbrus North Route
Elbrus North Route Expedition: Conquer the Highest Peak in Europe
Join our guided Elbrus North Route expeditions and summit the highest mountain in Europe at 5,642m, situated in the majestic Caucasus mountain range in Russia. If you seek an adventure that combines mountaineering with cultural immersion, the Elbrus North Route is the perfect choice.
Climbing Elbrus is not just about conquering the highest peak in Europe; it’s also about experiencing the rich Russian architecture, art, and history found in the cities of St. Petersburg and Moscow.
About Mount Elbrus
Mount Elbrus: The Icy Giant of the Caucasus Mount Elbrus is a truly impressive sight, covered by an immense sheet of ice spanning 145 square kilometers and reaching a thickness of 400m in some places. From the col that divides its two peaks, the white slopes descend gently, splitting into tongues of ice and crevasses. Elbrus dominates the central Caucasus landscape like a two-headed icy giant.
The Twin Peaks
Mount Elbrus has two peaks: the western peak (Zapadnaya) at 5,642m, officially the highest point in Europe, and the eastern peak (Vostochnaya) at 5,621m, a mere 21m lower than the true summit. The western peak boasts a gigantic crater 250m in diameter, often referred to as the “Little Antarctica.”
The Elbrus North Route: A Purist’s Delight
A Purist’s Approach to Mountaineering As a purist, I believe that mountains should challenge the human spirit, breaking us down so that we can rebuild ourselves stronger, wiser, and with an incredible sense of perspective that only the mountains can provide. The Elbrus North Route embodies this philosophy, offering a more challenging and authentic mountaineering experience.
Advantages of the North Route
- No cable cars: Unlike the South Route, there are no cable cars to assist your ascent, making the climb a true test of your abilities.
- Fewer climbers: The North Route is longer and more challenging, resulting in fewer climbers on the route, allowing for a more serene and remote experience.
- Remote base camp access: The drive to the base camp can only be done in rugged Russian 4×4 vehicles, adding to the adventure.
- Self-sufficiency: You’ll carry your own gear, making you stronger for the summit day and fostering a true sense of accomplishment.
- Alpine-style climbing: The upper part of the mountain involves roping up alpine-style and navigating crevasses, adding an element of technical mountaineering to the experience.
- Mountaineering skills training: During rest days, you’ll learn essential skills like using an ice axe, crampons, and alpine-style walking, preparing you for the challenges ahead.
- Base camp hospitality: A “Base Camp Mom” ensures you’re well-fed throughout the expedition, even following you to high camp.
Preparing for the Elbrus North Route
Acclimatization and Training In the days leading up to the summit attempt, you’ll undergo a thorough acclimatization process, carrying high-altitude gear to high camp and making acclimatization hikes to spots like Lenz Rocks at 4,600m. During rest days, you’ll receive comprehensive mountaineering skills training to ensure you’re prepared for the challenges of the North Route.
Fitness and Conditioning We understand that many climbers feel they lack the necessary mountaineering skills for Elbrus, which is why we provide comprehensive training. In the months leading up to the climb, we’ll put you through rigorous hikes in the Drakensberg and functional training regimes designed to test your physical and mental fortitude, ensuring you’re mountain-ready.
The Summit Push
A Challenging yet Rewarding Experience The summit push on the Elbrus North Route is a serious challenge that should not be underestimated. Expect a long day, often leaving high camp at midnight and returning by 7 PM. The climb will test your endurance, as you’ll be trekking on ice with crampons for 70% of the ascent, potentially wading through deep snow that can sap your energy reserves.
Altitude and Weather Challenges
The atmospheric pressures at Elbrus, closer to the Arctic Circle, make the 5,642m elevation feel like 6,100m. Additionally, you’ll need to contend with hidden crevasse fields, requiring alpine-style roped climbing, and the possibility of adverse weather conditions. Factors like altitude adaptation, physical and mental conditioning, and mountaineering skills will play a crucial role in your success.
The Summit Mountaineering Difference
Experienced Guides and Support At Summit Mountaineering, our passion for mountaineering drives us to provide the best possible experience for our clients. Our team has climbed some of the world’s highest and most challenging peaks, giving us a wealth of knowledge and experience to draw from. We offer comprehensive support, including free mountaineering training sessions, lectures on surviving at altitude, and 24/7 access to our team.
Personalized Preparation
We believe in walking the path with our clients, offering personalized training and preparation. This includes discounted Drakensberg training hikes to test your gear, physical capabilities, and altitude adaptation. We also conduct regular medical checks to monitor your readiness for the challenges of high altitude.
Cultural Immersion
Experiencing Mother Russia An Elbrus expedition with Summit Mountaineering isn’t just about the mountain; it’s also about immersing yourself in the unique and fascinating culture of Russia. Spend time in the iconic cities of Moscow and St. Petersburg, exploring landmarks like the Kremlin, Red Square, and the Moskva River. Who knows, you might even gain access to a secret room known only to those with a red ping-pong ball!
Russian Traditions
After your successful summit, prepare to experience the traditional Russian banya (sauna), where you’ll be whipped with birch leaves to stimulate circulation, followed by a plunge into a freezing glacial river. Don’t worry; there will be plenty of Russian vodka and beer to keep you hydrated throughout this invigorating ritual.
Best Time to Climb
The Optimal Climbing Season The best months for climbing the Elbrus North Route are mid-June to mid-September, the summer months in Russia, which offer the most favorable weather conditions. If you’re daring enough to attempt the climb during the Russian winter, be sure to contact Summit Mountaineering.
Conclusion
An Unforgettable Adventure Awaits Climbing the Elbrus North Route is an incredible adventure that combines the challenge of summiting the highest peak in Europe with the rich cultural experiences of Russia. With Summit Mountaineering, you’ll be guided by experienced mountaineers who will prepare you for the physical and mental demands of the climb, while also immersing you in the unique traditions and history of this remarkable region.
Whether you’re a seasoned mountaineer or a determined adventurer seeking a life-changing experience, the Elbrus North Route promises to leave you with a profound sense of accomplishment and an unforgettable journey.
INCLUDED
- Return flights from Moscow to Mineralyne Vody
- 1 nights accomodation in Moscow ( first night)
- Return transfers from Mineralyne Vody to Kislodvosk
- 2 nights’ accommodation in Kislodvosk in a 3 star travellers lodge ( sharing). Its not the Hiltons so please bare with us.
- Breakfast, lunch and dinner on the climb ( notice the words ‘on the climb’)
- Tented accommodation the Base camp of Elbrus
- Hut accomodation at High Camp
- Dry one liners to motivate you up the mountain. We only allow 3 jokes per hour. Extra jokes cost extra
- Climbing permits
- All government taxes
- Our loving and kind motivational speeches to get your ass up the mountain
- Does it come with a free ice axe? It comes with a gold plated one. If you pay for it. What do you do when you don’t climb mountains? Finance revolutions? Tighter than a duck’s butt, you are. Now, come on, let us feel the fibre of your fabric and stop haggling over the ice axe.
NOT INCLUDED
- Return International Flights from Johanneburg
- Dinners and lunches while in Kislodvosk. ( breakfast in the hotel is included)
- Dinners and lunches in Moscow
- Airport transfers in Moscow. ( we all chip in for a taxi)
- Your travel insurance (should include your medical and helicopter rescue)
- My wife
- Climbing equipment ( harness, ice axe, crampons, boots etc)
- Any personal expenses like shower and battery charges in the mountain
- Bar bills
- Advice on the stock exchange fluctuations and how they will effect the global economy
- Any extra night’s accommodation in Kislodvosk or Moscow if we get down early. (we have included extra days in case of bad weather. If all goes according to plan, then we will be back down early. So maybe keep a few dollars spare in case)
- Any abuse about how horrible we are for not telling you about the difficulty of the climb. This usually starts at about 5,167m at 3:45 am on the summit night. And of course, we would have told you how difficult it CAN be if you have met with us.. but you would have forgotten by then. Poor us.
- Staff tipping. Looking left and right before crossing the road doesn’t count.
Day 1
Shed a tear or two as you say goodbye to your mommy. As calm a a coma we board the plane and the journey begins. We usually fly to Dubai. Well we don’t really fly, the pilot does. We just drink beer and harass the toasters in aisle 4.
Day 2
Arrive in Moscow. We then avoid the vodka induced coma for the time being and make our way to the hotel. We then check in, have a shower and go for dinner. We will chain everyone up to each other to avoid any stragglers who may stray into the loving arms of a Russian bride.
Day 3
We send 4 ninjas and a wild red ant with drums and pots into your rooms at 5am to slowly entice you for your slumber. We fly from Moscow to Minerlayne Vody. We aim to be on the 10am flight arriving by 12H30. We will be met at the small airport by Andrey, our Russian guide for the duration of the expedition. We than pile our climbing gear on the bus and take the 2.5 hour drive through to the town of Kislodvosk.
We spend the rest of the day checking your equipment.Thats right sportsfans…we don’t trust our clients as far as wec an throw thm when it comes to equipment. You will be expected to lay everything out on the hotel room floor. A kit inspection is then done by us with the help of an armed Spatnazts commando to ensure cooperation in the process. Now why would we do that? Because this is the last town to get equipment. If you have misplaced, lost or need to hire climbing equipment like crampons, ice axe and ‘anti exploding eye’ devices this is when we do it.
There are zero facilities at base camp. Doo yew Underrrrrrtsund? Dinner will be in a traditional Russian restaurant and don’t even think about disappearing when the bill comes. This one is on you. We will then apply with the authorities for an official bed time. We usually get assigned with 22h13.
Day 4
Agenda for the day. Wake up obviously. Stuff your pie hole with a good heary Russian breakfast. We then take the 3.5 hour drive through the Emmanuel Meadow base camp at 2500m. We get set up in the tents and then go for a 2 hour trek around the valley.
Day 5
Cock a doodle do. Or don’t. But we prefer if you do .We take an acclimitization climb up to the high camp at 3,800m. We also use this hike to take a load of climbing equipment up. We then hike back down again
Day 6
Today we hike back up again to high camp with the rest of our equipment. But this time we staty there. We will sleep in the huts.
Day 7
The impact of bisymmetrical diversions on the molecular gene pool has resulted in a monosytemattical integration of one ping pong ball into another causing a dust storm in Spain. If this make sense to you, we allow you to carry on with the trek. If it doesn’t, we do a full medical evaluation on you before granting access to the path.
Today we climb up to Lenz Rocks at 4600m. This is part of the acclimitisation process and we will also spend some time here teaching you some vital mountaineering skills-most important of all will be the self arrest with an ice axe. We return back to high camp
Day 8
Rest Day
Day 9
Summit Day!!!! Or день саммита in Russian. Can I tickle your bum with a feather? I mean, particularly nasty weather. Well hopefully not. We will wake up at 11pm to check the weather. If its all good and the go ahead from the Big Cheese then we get ready for a 1am departure. The sumnmit is going to be long. We usually hit the summit by 1pm. Have a cry and make the 6 hour trek back down to high camp.
Day 10
Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 11
Trek back down to the lower base camp in the meadow. Spend the night there.
Day 12
We return back to Kislodvosk, have a shower, vodka, vodka, vodka, vodka, vodka, vomit, vodka, dinner,sleep
Day 13
Today we wake up early and take the drive back to Mineralyne Vody for our connecting flight to Moscow. We aim to be in Moscow by 14H00. Overnight in Moscow
Day 14
Fly back to Johannesburg. Obviosuly if you feel like soending more time in Moscow you just need to let su know and we can extend your return flight.
Day 15
Arrive back in Johannesburg.
